Origins of Food is Elementary
By Antonia Demas, Ph.D.
Young Antonia
This is the story of our how the Food Studies Institute nonprofit and the Food is Elementary curriculum came to be. It is a short summary of the lifelong work of our Foundress, Antonia Demas, highlighting the influences, inspiration, and experiences that shaped the work we do at Food Studies Institute.
Antonia has always had a passion for food, cooking, art, children and nature. Her parents were progressive educators and her paternal grandparents were Italian immigrants, living in New York City (NYC) where they grew a variety of organic herbs, fruits, vegetables and flowers long before arugula and pesto were part of the American lexicon. Ironically, it was her annual visits to NYC as a very young child where she first became fascinated by food, cooking, gardening and ecology. She remembers eating fresh figs she picked from a fig tree growing in her grandparents’ courtyard, listening to her grandfather playing an accordion, eating meals under a grape arbor laden with ripe grapes, and picking herbs and veggies for her grandmother to show her how to prepare into fresh delicious meals. These early experiences had a profound influence on her thinking by putting the beauty and joy of food and gardening in a central role in her thoughts. In 1964 she quit eating meat because she did not like the idea of eating animals and loved the taste of fresh fruits, vegetables, and herbs. There was little popular support for this way of eating at the time so Antonia decided to learn as much as she could about food and nutrition. This desire for knowledge about food from a broad-based perspective has become her lifelong quest from which she is still learning and has been engaged in her entire life.
Antonia’s interest in food, cooking, and nutrition was further enhanced when her son Damon was born in 1970. At the time, natural childbirth (childbirth without automatically drugging the mother) was highly unusual. Antonia was able to find an obstetrician who let her give birth without drugs and who also did not discourage breastfeeding, a practice which was frowned upon at the time. Fortunately, we have come full circle from these beliefs, but it is good to get a perspective on how widely believed “facts” about what is best can change over time.
Day 1
6 Months
Antonia was fascinated by watching her baby grow and develop. The daily changes were perceptible and happened quickly. She observed her infant son exploring the world through his senses, looking, hearing, touching, smelling and tasting. He developed keen powers of observation and learned to navigate and make sense of his environment using the information obtained from his sensory perceptions. She noticed the natural impulse of her son and other infants to put everything in their mouth as part of this exploration and discovery. She recognized the importance of providing a stimulating environment where it was safe for her son to explore, and to follow his interests and build upon his instincts.
When her son began to naturally transition from breastfeeding to eating real food, Antonia made homemade baby food. The commercially prepared baby food available in the 1970’s contained added sugars, dyes and preservatives which she did not want to feed to her son at such a crucial age of growth and development. She purchased a blender and pureed all of the foods she fed to her son. This led to her becoming an advocate for child nutrition. She learned that the early years are a critical time to introduce healthy foods and the way this is done can last a lifetime. If the adult makes unpleasant faces when feeding the child healthy items such as unsweetened vegetables it is likely this will bias the baby to dislike the food. But if the adult models positive behavior it is likely the child will want to imitate the adult. Encouragement and compliments for eating healthy foods is also effective.
As Damon outgrew baby food, Antonia supplied his highchair tray with an array of colorful whole foods and allowed him to self-select what he ate. Letting her son feed himself was messy, but in the end well worth it. Antonia learned something very important, that the more direct experience young children have with food, the more likely they will be to eat it. This enduring understanding became a guiding principle in her life’s work around food literacy education. Giving her son control over his eating was very empowering for him, and because the only options available were nutritious, he developed a taste for healthy foods which endures over 50 years later. Damon ate only homemade whole grain bread and whole foods. When he was school age, he brought his homemade lunches to school where he was sometimes teased for having brown bread sandwiches.
At the time, Antonia’s family was living in rural Vermont. She began to formally teach food studies to children in 1972 when she began volunteering at a large Child Development Center in Montpelier that was both a Head Start school and Day Care facility with 60+ students. She quickly noticed that the philosophy of Head Start was something she agreed with supporting parent involvement, daily play outdoors no matter what the weather, and reading to children every day. The one disconnect was the food being served. Though at the time cooks prepared the meals onsite (rather than just heating up already prepared foods), they were serving items such as hot dogs and processed foods which Antonia did not think were the healthiest foods for children. She focused her efforts as a volunteer on working with the cooks to improve the nutrition of the menus and developing hands-on cooking projects for the students. Almost immediately she found that when children literally have a hand in preparing foods, they will eat them. She tested this out by asking parents what healthy foods their kids would not eat. She then developed sensory based curricular activities around these foods and found that, without exception, if the activities were fun and the child could create their own experiment with the food, they would not only eat it but eat it with enthusiasm.
Antonia observed that the key to the success of these children wanting to eat vegetables was that the activities we did were enjoyable, sensory-based, and hands-on. The lessons were naturally interdisciplinary, incorporating science, math, social studies, art, music, and literature in a wholistic approach. The positive response of her Head Start students prompted her to try out this teaching method with other students, and she found it to be universally successful with a variety of age groups when done correctly.
This was prior to the childhood obesity and diet-related health epidemic that later began plaguing children as more and more processed foods entered the market. Antonia was hired by the center as a full-time teacher and cooked with the students every day. They loved these activities and Antonia loved doing research to create her food-based units of study which involved using food as the vehicle to teach science, math, social studies, art, music, and literature.
Additionally, Antonia worked with students to create a school garden. She found that the same principle was in play. Not only if kids prepared their own foods would they eat them, but they would also eat them when they grew them in the school garden. The garden served as an outdoor lab for nature study along with teaching students where food comes from.
The Head Start/Day Care Center was in Montpelier, the State capital of Vermont and only a couple of blocks away from the capital building. On Arbor Day, Antonia had some evergreen trees donated to her. She contacted officials at the capitol building to see if her students could plant these trees in front of the building to celebrate Arbor Day. The answer was “yes” and many years later, Antonia and Ariel, her daughter visited these trees that were planted in 1972 by Antonia, her son Damon, and children in the Head Start Day Care Center.
While working at the Child Care Center in Vermont, Antonia learned of an experimental program that Goddard College was offering to Head Start employees. It was called the Goddard Experimental Program in Further Education (GEPFE) and was very innovative. Goddard received a grant from the federal government to offer further education to people working at Head Start Centers in early education. It has been well known that the first five years of life are crucial for child development and future success in life, yet very few resources have been put into this proven theory. The Head Start program is a notable exception although the financial resources allocated to Head Start should be assured, given the lifelong benefits of this program.
GEPFE was unique because it recognized that employees at Head Start Centers did not have financial resources or time to go to college full time. Often they had children of their own to care for as well. GEPFE addressed these issues by having free tuition for all Head Start employees, class time every third weekend at Goddard for the entire weekend, and having students do independent study work related to their work with children. Antonia had completed some previous college so only needed two years at GEPFE. There were no grades and students were responsible for self-evaluations. This system worked well for Antonia because she is her own worst critic and feels that if you have honest self-reflection you can grow much more than if you memorize something for a test. Antonia did her Senior Study project on The Politics of Protein and is grateful to Goddard for this unique opportunity. She saw real transformation of her fellow students and herself.
In 1977, Antonia and her family moved to central New York. Daughter Ariel was born shortly thereafter and from age one onward would participate in food preparation. Her favorite activity was kneading dough. The minute she saw that bread or pasta was in the works, she would pull up a chair to stand on next to the table and proclaim “I need to knead.” Kneading dough was one of her favorite activities as a child along with creating recipes for mint soup for her dolls and cat.
“I need to knead!”
Antonia volunteered at least once a month in both Damon and Ariel’s classrooms as they progressed through grade school. She would meet with their teachers to learn what they were studying each month and then design and create food-based units of study on those topics. All units involved preparing foods and learning about their cultural background and history. Students loved these lessons, as they made their academic subjects come alive. Antonia was also hired as a consultant to develop and teach units of study for the county she lived in. Additionally, she had opportunities to travel to other countries and taught children outside of the U.S. the same lessons. She was curious to find out if her teaching methods around food crossed cultural lines and was happy to learn that they did.
Over a period of twenty-five years Antonia was engaged formally and informally in food literacy education projects. Her consistent observation working with many diverse groups was that the kids were the easy part if they were engaged in hands-on sensory-based learning about food. The problem was often adult perceptions about kids and a lack of understanding and appreciation of their natural curiosity about the world. Children first learn through sensory experimentation. They touch, taste, see, smell, and listen to what is going on around them to make sense of their surroundings from sensory data they absorb. Educators do not often take advantage of this sensory receptivity to the environment as a starting point for learning.
A growing frustration that Antonia had was that many educators did not really take this work seriously, an attitude she believes stems from a fundamental bias about what is perceived as “woman’s work”. Women all over the world feed and care for children, no matter what their educational or cultural background. Increasingly in the U.S. many women were having to get jobs outside the home for economic reasons; the nuclear family with stay-at-home moms was becoming a thing of the past. At the same time, convenience foods that required little if any preparation flooded the market. Scientists were making connections about the role diet plays in disease and the diet-related diseases were affecting younger people at an alarming rate.
When Antonia was in her mid-forties she decided one way to gain credibility for food literacy education and the work she had been engaged in while raising her family was to go back to school and get a research degree at a major research institution. That was her motivation for entering first a master’s and then a Ph.D. program at nearby Cornell University. Antonia studied nutrition, education, and anthropology and conducted groundbreaking research around food acceptance while at the university. She combined these interests and formalized her food-based lessons into a curriculum called Food is Elementary. This curriculum combines nutrition education, culinary arts, botany, and traditional foodways, making learning about food, science and culture accessible and fun for students of all ages. Joan Roos Egner, one of Antonia’s professors in the field of education who also served on her graduate committee said, “Antonia is a superb teacher who masterfully works with teachers to implement her program and integrate a wide variety of disciplines. The curriculum is a creative example of education and nutrition at its best.”
At Cornell Antonia discovered Ellen Swallow Richards, founder of the home economics movement, and was shocked to learn that most people had never heard of Ellen Richards even though the College of Human Ecology would not exist if it weren’t for her work. Antonia had taken a course on the history of home economics and as she read a biography of Ms. Richards she was amazed at what this woman had accomplished in the late 1800’s into the early 1900’s. A chemist by training, Ellen Richards applied scientific principles to the home environment and made major contributions to public health and nutrition education. She was very energetic in her research and she conducted multiple studies that addressed the quality of air, water and food. She coined the word ecology and had a very holistic approach to thinking about the relationship between people and their environment in daily life. Ellen Richards was also the first woman to attend and teach at M.I.T. Every chance she gets, Antonia spreads the word about Ellen Richards, a heroine who is a great inspiration and has shaped her own research and innovative approach to food literacy education.
For her doctoral research, Antonia designed and conducted a major research study titled “Food education in the elementary classroom as a means of gaining acceptance of diverse, low-fat foods in the school lunch program”. Her research took place at an elementary school in Trumansburg, New York over the course of nine months. Half of the classrooms served as the intervention group with the other half serving as the control. Experiential learning about foods in the classroom was the independent variable. Foods were cooked in the intervention classrooms by the children as they learned some of the history and lore of the new food. The same low-fat food was then offered as part of the hot lunch. Consumption measurements were taken for all students who ate hot lunch, every time a new dish was offered. This involved weighing the new food before and after it was served to the children. This was a critical step to determine whether, after experiencing food in the classroom, the children would eat the new food when it was then served in the cafeteria. The new food was served in the cafeteria within a week of the time that was introduced in the intervention classes. The intervention group and control group were then compared. This research used both quantitative and qualitative methodologies. A sample of 91 intervention students were interviewed pre and post intervention. Parents in both groups received a questionnaire at the end of the school year and comparisons between the groups were made with chi square analysis.
Results were overwhelmingly positive and consistent. The intervention children ate much more of the new food when it was offered in the school lunch program than did the control children. The control children rarely touched the new food. The intervention children learned about foods from other cultures and basic nutrition. Parents of intervention children reported positive change in family dietary habits. The research demonstrated that experiential learning about food in the classroom is a powerful technique for gaining acceptance of diverse, low-fat foods in the school lunch program.
After demonstrating through research the positive relationship between food education and food acceptance and successfully earning a Ph.D., Antonia founded the Food Studies Institute to promote this proven method. The need is great, as diet-related diseases have increased since the 1990’s and are affecting the wellbeing and daily lives of American children at alarming rates. Our children are suffering from diseases that previously were considered primarily adult diseases. Most schools do not teach nutrition, gardening, or ecology. Food is Elementary is an effective way to educate children and families about food literacy.
Since founding the Food Studies Institute nonprofit in 1999, Antonia has trained thousands of teachers to teach Food is Elementary© and conducted many interesting research projects on the topic of food education and food acceptance. Her original vision for transforming the school lunch program by pairing it with food education in the classroom remains. We owe it to our children to give them the very best food and education, so that they can live their best life and stem the trend of diet-related disease.













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